I am Casablanca-bound… In a first-class carriage for the five hour train journey from Tangier to Casa: it is very nice! I think I could have saved the equivalent of about AU$ 5 if I’d opted for second class… but seating (and air con?) isn’t guaranteed – and for a five hour train journey I figured it was totally worth it.
When I arrive in Casablanca, I will check into my hotel, and presumably meet the rest of my tour group sometime this evening. I’ve opted for a tour with Gecko’s Adventures: the timing of the tour fitted perfectly with my other travel plans, and although my original plan was to travel through Morocco on my own, I had started to question my own sanity… A number of people I met have told me I was crazy to even consider coming here alone (as a single-female traveller).
After two nights in Tangier, I am glad that I made the decision to join a group – not because I’ve felt unsafe: no-one has been unpleasant or threatening – but because being the constantly stared at is very wearying, and finding a way to fit in as a woman is hard: there are lots of women on the streets, but none of them seem to operate shops or eat at cafes or restaurants! I’ve found it harder here than in Turkey because I’ve seen less foreign tourists (this may be just because Tangier is not one of the major destinations in Morocco). Also, the second language here is French, then Spanish, with English probably about number four, which makes communication more of a challenge.
I took the ‘fast ferry’ from Tarifa (Spain) to Tangier on Friday. It may be ‘fast’ when in motion… but it’s certainly not a fast service! I arrived at the ferry terminal (from the bus station) with only 10 minutes to spare before the 1pm crossing. There was a slow-moving queue to buy tickets, and I was a bit concerned I might miss it… I should not have worried! I think the ferry finally left port around 2pm! The journey itself was quick – it’s advertised as a 35 minute crossing – and very smooth. I thought the ‘overland & water’ journey might be more interesting than flying – but all the seating on the ferry is inside, so I didn’t really have any appreciation of leaving the Spanish coast behind, or of arriving in Africa. In reality, it was lucky that the ferry didn’t leave port earlier: all passengers have to get their passports stamped by the Moroccan immigration police on-board the ferry. From the time the first passengers boarded, until our arrival into port at Tangier, the queue snaked way back through the ship – there is no way they could have processed us all if they’d only had 35 minutes!
On board the ferry I met a couple of American guys (Scott and James) who were on a short European holiday (with just one day to check out Morocco). Co-incidentally, I met another American couple at dinner on my first night in Tangier: they were also there for only one-night… so, although Tangier isn’t the number 1 tourist destination in Morocco, it is certainly an accessible one for a short trip (in fact, I think the ferry company offers day or overnight-trip packages).
On arrival in Tangier, I resigned myself to the first ‘scam’: the official from the tourist office who can help you get safely to your hotel… the short taxi ride cost me €5 (about AU$7). This morning, I took one of the metered taxis to the train station; which was probably a similar distance, and it cost me just MAD 10 – about AU$1.20! However, I got to my hotel and managed to get rid of the tourist official (who was now touting his services as a guide of the city).
There are apparently metered taxis (small, blue cars) and unmetered taxis – where you have to agree a price (cream coloured). I am unclear on whether this colour system is standard throughout Morocco, or why the two tiers even exist, but my experience this morning with the blue taxi was very simple: I didn’t even have to ask about the meter – it was automatic.
I really struggled to find any budget accommodation in Tangier my online search turned up only ‘apartments’ (which cost more with only one person, as I’d have to pay for the whole room), or hotels. I was also looking for something that had good reviews, as I wasn’t prepared to stay somewhere ‘dodgy’ on my first night in Morocco! Hotel Rembrandt, where I eventually ended up staying, was perfectly functional – although my A/C and several lights in the bathroom didn’t go – the pool area was really nicely landscaped (although the demolition / construction site next door with the massive digger did somewhat disrupt the tranquillity!), and the breakfast buffet (included) was pretty good. But I did find it amusing that all the locals I met said “oh, very nice hotel”… as I thought it was a little bit tired, and had maybe seen better days!
It took me about 2 hours in my hotel room to mentally prepare for the inevitable culture-shock of venturing out the door. When I did, I walked down to the medina (walled, old city) – armed with a completely hopeless map, and no real plan where to go. I wandered around for a while – and ascertained that the Kasbah (palace) was closed on Friday afternoons.
Eventually, I got ‘picked up’ by a carpet salesman…
There appear to be at least three categories of guide here: the ‘officials’ from the tourist office, the men on the street who are not ‘guides’ (they don’t have a badge) – but will show you around for a price, and the shop owners – who will show you around for ‘free’ as long as you come to their shop.
My ‘not-guide’ took me through some of the streets of the Medina (it’s a total maze, the streets snake all over the place, and a lot are dead-ends; I had no idea where I was most of the time), he took me to see a traditional pharmacy (where the pharmacist showed me all his cooking herbs, lotions, beauty creams etc… I wasn’t buying), and then up to the top of his carpet shop to see the view (it was a very good view!)
I was then invited for mint tea and a showcase of the carpet shop wares! Now, after my time in the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, I’ve decided that I don’t really mind this process – it’s quite good fun chatting to these guys, the mint tea is good, and while they are persistent, they are not ‘pushy’. Once again, I didn’t buy a carpet: but actually, I did end up with a silk bedspread – I’ve no idea if the price was good, but it wasn’t a huge amount in Aussie dollars. I then asked for a recommendation for a restaurant, and ended up at the Kasbah restaurant – which it is clear is the final stop for all the guided tourists! I invited myself to sit at a table with an American couple who had employed a ‘category 2’ guide… and for a small fee it sounds like they got a similar tour: pharmacy, carpet shop + view, and this restaurant! The food wasn’t bad, the company was good, and the only issue was payment at the end: the couple I was with had been told MAD 150 each, I’d been told MAD 80 by my carpet salesman; but I hadn’t sighted a menu, or spoken to the restaurant owner , so he wanted to charge me MAD 100. I insisted, and got my meal for 80 (nearly AU $ 10, so I didn’t think that was especially cheap), but the guy wasn’t happy… they don’t really seem to get angry, but I guess it’s another reminder to make sure all negotiation is clear up-front to avoid this kind of scenario.
My day 2 in Tangier followed a similar pattern (minus the guide); wandering the streets, looking at markets, carpet shop (where I managed to acquire some clothing – which might hopefully be cool, but suitably conservative), and also visited the Kasbah – a much smaller, less ornate version of the Alcazar in Seville, with a small, tranquil garden: with no one else there!
So, after my first two days in Tangier, I haven’t quite figured out how women fit in – and I definitely feel a bit restricted in what I can do:
· The beach-front in Tangier was quite popular (although the port right next door does make it feel a little less inviting!) There were lots of men swimming, running and playing soccer. There were lots of kids (boys and girls) playing in the water. But the women sat on the beach, fully covered, and supervised the children.
· The pool at the hotel looked quite inviting, but yesterday evening it seemed to be the place to meet for drinks at the hotel – so there were quite a few groups of people sitting around. A lot of the men jumped in for a swim, but I only saw one girl dive in, then straight out again. I decided that I felt too uncomfortable to get in (and wasn’t sure it was even culturally appropriate – especially as my swim suit is a Portugal-purchased bikini; which I feel self-conscious in anyway).
· The cafes lining the streets are arranged the Italian-way: with all the seating facing out onto the pavement to watch passers-by. Most these cafes were pretty busy: but ONLY men sit there.
· Walking the streets of the medina, there are a lot of small shops producing kaftans – the doorways were always open to the street, and inside I would see anywhere between 1-5 men and boys at work, sewing. I asked one of the carpet salesmen if it was traditional for the men (not the women) to do this work, and he said that both do; but that the women would not be comfortable working where they could be seen by passers-by (and if they felt like they were being stared-at they would not do good quality work), so presumably all the women are hidden away inside somewhere.
· There were plenty of women and girls on the streets – the majority wear the traditional Muslim kaftans or overcoats and head scarves (a far higher proportion that in Turkey), the few who wear ‘Western’ style dress very conservatively in long trousers, skirts and long tops.
· Although I attracted a fair amount of stares as I walked along the streets – and a fair amount of “Bonjours”, I thought that the men in Tangier were less blatant than the ones I met in Turkey… In Tangier I got told I was beautiful, and had a few invitations for drinks (alcohol is clearly easily accessible, despite the high Muslim population). In Turkey, several of the invitations were for companionship in bed!
· I struggled to find somewhere to have dinner last night: the places that were open to the street seemed to be men-only establishments, and if I couldn’t see inside then I didn’t really feel comfortable going in… I ended up in a place recommended in the Lonely Planet; which was very empty (but had a couple of other solo diners). I’m hoping that being part of a group (and with a guide to recommend places), that I might be able to be a little more adventurous from now-on.
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